I received a compact camera from the brother. He said he found it that way, broken or not working properly. With this he ment, lens mechanism was not extending and retracting as it should.
I had it stored for future repair time. Today I was again looking into it and found this page: http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/A480 (CHDK – Canon Hack Development Kit). I thought to myself, I would like to use this. But first I wanted to see if anything can be done to repair mechanism.
I used YT disassembly movie as a reference. I opened and removed the parts in this order: back plastic, screen assembly and then lens with sensor assembly. Had to desolder 2 ribbon cables (one for photo interrupter, one prob. for focus). Then I could split assembly.
(1st pic) Lens assembly has a motor with worm gear on it and 3 reduction gears. White gear on the right (You can see clearly how plastic gears fit together. Last one in the chain is long black one (broken).
(2nd pic) Broken gear with missing axis part. This gear is long, because the lens assembly extends outward. Replacements are sold on ebay for about 5€ and ship from far away, Hong Kong.
(3rd pic) 1,2 mm drill for making hole for replacement axis.
(4th pic) leg from diode rectifier used as axis.
Camera works now. Post with CHDK installed soon to come.
I was thinking about adding light, to small world globe I have, for quite some time.
Yesterday I diffused 6 LEDs with sand paper and soldered 6 of them (parallel) into a small blob. After drilling the holes in globe holder, I ran wires GND and +V through. Today I added a 2×56 ohm resistors (about 28 ohm, and 0.5W) for limiting resistor and a micro usb port.
When not charging my phone I can learn countries of the world (in German :))
Also nice present for a small kid, who likes to have lights when going to bed.
Well, I decided to remove the logo from a C**** World Time Illuminator watch I have and wear all the time now. I removed 4 screws from the back and made sure I didn’t lose the the gasket that keeps water or other liquids from entering.
There was not much in the housing. I pried out the plastic front end, reattached glass and already put everything together when decided to look for the led that illuminates the watch when pressed. It was orange led.
Measurements showed it has a series resistor of 100 ohms and forward voltage of about 2V. Then I noticed 3 more SMD pads on other corners of the pcb. They were connected in parallel, which meant I could add 3 more LEDS for greater effect. Found some small RED SMD 0805 LEDS and. Added 100 ohm in series for about 13mA per LED and after soldering with my 2nd soldering iron you can see the result. It’s like the ring of fire on my hand (in person).
I am so happy I tried to make something useful to me and others.
In 1 year I have successfully sold products to more than 100 costumers.
The beginning is definitely a sale of SAMPLE (Gameboy DMG power adapter) I received from a manufacturer. 1st sale happened on the next day I put it on eBay. There was so much adrenalin and affirmation I decided to give it a try.
Map of costumers from 11.April.2013 til 8.May.2014:
I wanted to sniff a cheap (4$ with receiver side) RF remote so it could be used in other projects. IR remotes are fine, but require “visual” contact between transmitting and receiving diode. RF modules allow for longer range with obstacles. Goal is also to replicate RF codes and be able to send them using computer terminal and implement an RF receiver for this particular remote.
Last project using cheap SDR USB dongle I saw was: Sniffing pH Sensor RF Signals for Feedback Re: Your Esophagus. He used a Software Defined Radio to capture the radio transmissions from a Bravo Ph esophageal monitor. Before there were also projects tracking air planes, receiving images from weather satellites and “all” listed in same article.
This post is a continuation of 1st post of this conversion, there I made an order for required components. Now that I have all the pieces, I can proceed with it.
Prototype LED+lenses setup
The task is to “focus” light back into 1 spot. Configuration of the lenses I envisioned is in the concept. For a prototype I tried to replicate this setup using PVC pipe holders that are sold in hardware shops. Result is a bright square big 5×5 mm in a “focus” about 25 mm away from the last (left) lens. I friend has a Voltcraft MT-52 multimeter, that has an option of a lux meter. I tried to use it for just the focused light. Didn’t get consistent readings. Will use it to measure projector output once assembled.
My brother had an unfortunate accident with his laptop Acer Aspire V3-771G. He closed laptop hinge but left headphones in between the keyboard and screen. That caused LCD to crack and screen didn’t work any more. Guarantee repair was out of question for its price (170€ / 230$).
REPAIR: I found a replacement screen on German eBay for (87€ shipping included). Having knowledge with disassembling laptop screens, replacing backlights (CCFL on my Lenovo T60) and watching a simple tutorial on youtube I decided I was qualified for it.
It took me less than an episode of How I met your mother (20 min) to replace it. Brother -> happy.
REUSE; INTRO: I was left with a broken LCD screen but working LED backlight.
Year ago I impulsively bought a SHARP XR-10X-L projector after watching a post on Hackaday: http://hackaday.com/2013/03/28/epson-projector-led-mod/#more-96946 . I started to look into it a week ago. It has no lamp, so I will consider buying a replacement or making a LED conversion. I collected a lot of links, datasheets, video…
This will be 1st of 2 posts about projector conversion. I this I will write about what I need to buy and to make it. 2nd post will be assembly. Most important is to pick the right projector. I may have failed a it. Mine is a DLP projector. (3LCD vs. DLP). But I will still have a go with it.
Main inspiration for conversion are two videos from electrodacus: (comments of videos are very informative)
I bought this Metawatch WDS111 (“Analog”) watch on a discount TI’s Back To School. I decided I will give it more thought when I have time. Yesterday I decided to take it out of the box and figure out first how to program it and find source code. So I searched quite a while and found very few information. Most modifications are on the mobile phone side (Arduino or iPhone).
- MSP430F5438A (256Kb of flash)
- CC2560 Bluetooth host controller
- Vibrating motor
- Three-axis accelerometer
- Ambient light sensor
- Dual OLED Displays (80×16 px)
- Analog Hands
- 3 Buttons
My introduction into code modification is HOW TO CHANGE BOOT LOGO.
Because I was sitting a lot in front a computer, I realized that my body weight increased dramatically. I started to look for different possibilities of remaking a dormitory sitting desk into a standing desk. I came up with wooden legs that would increase its height to my standing position.
- 3d model in Sketchup of a wooden leg (which is a great option for this kind of tables with hollow metal legs)
- first and also better iteration of the design